Papua New Guinea is well renowned for the 700 or so bird species found there.  It is home to 38 of the world's 43 most spectacular and gaudy species known as 'Birds of Paradise', with their bizarre displays of mating rituals.  The closely related Bower birds may lack incredible feathering in their males, but make up for it in their home-building skills with elaborate maypoles and gardens, complete with a well-kept lawn and flower arrangements.

Perhaps the most noteworthy of all the other species of birds in Papua New Guinea are the giant flightless Cassowaries, native to the humid rain forests of New Guinea, nearby smaller islands, and northeastern Australia. Usually shy birds in the deep forest, they are adept at disappearing long before a human knows they are there.  The females are larger and more brightly colored, standing  as much as two meters (6.6 ft) tall, and weighing 58 kilos (130 lb).  Cassowary's have three-toed feet with sharp claws.  The inner toe sports a dagger-like claw that is 5 inches long.  This claw is an excellent weapon since cassowaries sometimes kick humans and animals with their enormously powerful legs.  They can run up to 50 km/h (31 mph) through the dense forest and jump up to 1.5 meters (4.9 ft) high and are good swimmers, enabling them to cross wide rivers and swim in the sea as well.

Like the Birds of Paradise, Cassowaries are of great ceremonial significance to many tribal groups.  Tribal men are often seen carrying bone knives made from the Cassowaries' leg bones.  They aren't used for fighting, but more as a blunt multi-use utensil. 

This lone warrior stopped me along the road allowing for this portrait to be taken.  After several minutes of silence,  looking each other up and down, we shook hands and I was about to leave, as he reached to his waste and handed me his Cassowary knife.  After admiring it carefully, I handed it back to him, but he refused to accept it.  After several attempt to return it, he broke into a smile gesturing he wanted to gift it.  Sliding it under my waistband, we shook hands once more.  Accepting one of the greatest  treasures of the entire ten year bike journey, I pedaled off.  I'm looking at it on my desk right now, trying my best to remember the details of this wild adventure 30 years ago.